TX State Guide · Updated March 2026
Best Grass Seed for Texas
The best grass seeds for Texas lawns, tested against brutal heat, drought, and black clay. Our expert picks for Dallas, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, and the Hill Country.
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Texas lawns don't follow one rulebook — they follow at least four. Draw a line down I-35 from Dallas through Austin to San Antonio, and you've split the state into two fundamentally different lawn care worlds. East of the interstate, you're dealing with humidity, acidic sandy soils, and fungal pressure that never lets up. West of it, you're fighting alkaline caliche, relentless wind, and water bills that'll make you reconsider the whole lawn concept. And that's before you account for the 800-mile north-south spread that puts Amarillo in Zone 7 (with legitimate hard freezes) and the Rio Grande Valley in Zone 9b (where bermuda never fully goes dormant).
If you've ever driven through the DFW metroplex in August, you've seen the Blackland Prairie in action — and by 'action' we mean the sprawling network of cracks in the dark expansive clay that can swallow a golf ball. This Houston Black clay series shrinks and swells dramatically with moisture cycles, heaving foundations and shearing root systems. It's some of the most fertile soil in Texas, but it fights you every step of the way. You can't just throw seed on cracked clay and hope for the best. You need gypsum, core aeration in spring and fall, and a topdressing program that builds organic matter over years, not weeks.
Water is the other conversation that dominates Texas lawn care. San Antonio Water System (SAWS) Stage 2 restrictions — which limit irrigation to once per week on your designated day — have been in effect more often than not over the past decade. Austin's similar. Even in wet years, most Central Texas municipalities maintain permanent twice-weekly watering caps. This isn't a temporary inconvenience; it's the new reality. Any grass you plant in the I-35 corridor needs to survive on minimal supplemental water, period. That means bermuda, buffalo, or zoysia — and the days of wall-to-wall St. Augustine maintained with daily sprinklers are numbered.
Houston is its own planet. The Gulf Coast gets 50-plus inches of rain annually, the humidity sits north of 80% for months, and the clay-loam soil stays waterlogged through spring. Fungal diseases like brown patch and take-all root rot are endemic, not occasional. Meanwhile, drive eight hours west to El Paso and you're in Chihuahuan Desert territory with 8 inches of annual rainfall and caliche hardpan that laughs at your shovel. These aren't subtle regional differences — they demand completely different grass species, watering strategies, and maintenance calendars.
Here's what most Texans don't realize: the bermuda sod that builders slap down on every new subdivision in the state is typically a common bermuda variety chosen for cost, not performance. It's thin, it's weedy within two years, and it goes dormant the second temperatures dip below 55. Seeding with an improved bermuda cultivar — or better yet, overseeding that tired builder-grade sod — gives you denser turf, better color retention into fall, and dramatically improved drought tolerance. Seed is the smarter long-term play for anyone willing to put in the establishment work, and in Texas, spring gives you a perfect window to do it right.
Quick Picks: Our Top 3 for Texas
Understanding Texas's Lawn Climate
Ranges from humid subtropical in East Texas to semi-arid in the west and hot desert in the Big Bend region. Summers are brutally hot across the state, with 100F+ days common from June through September. North Texas (Dallas-Fort Worth) gets occasional hard freezes and ice storms in winter, while the Gulf Coast stays mild. Spring brings severe thunderstorms and hail that can damage young turf.
Key Challenges
Best Planting Time for Texas
Late April through June for warm-season grasses; avoid planting after August as fall drought stress is common
Our Top 3 Picks for Texas
Scotts Turf Builder Bermudagrass
Scotts · Warm Season · $30-45 for 10 lbs
Why this seed for Texas: Bermuda is THE Texas grass. It thrives in brutal heat, handles clay soil, and recovers from drought. Scotts' blend gives you an accessible entry point with proven performance across the Lone Star State.
Pennington Zenith Zoysia Grass Seed & Mulch
Pennington · Warm Season · $25-35 for 2 lbs
Why this seed for Texas: Zoysia is the premium choice for Texas homeowners who want a thicker, softer lawn than bermuda. It handles North Texas cold snaps better than many warm-season grasses.
Sharp's Improved II Buffalo Grass
Sharp Bros. Seed Co. · Warm Season · $24 (3 lbs)
Why this seed for Texas: Native to the Great Plains, buffalo grass is built for West Texas and the Hill Country. Survives on rainfall alone in most years — the ultimate water-wise choice.
Best Grass Seed by Region in Texas
DFW / North Texas
The Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex sits squarely on the Blackland Prairie, defined by heavy, dark, expansive clay soil with a pH that often pushes 8.0 or higher. Summers routinely exceed 100 degrees for weeks at a time, but winters bring legitimate freezes — the 2021 ice storm proved that. This region is firmly Zone 8a, meaning warm-season grasses dominate but need enough cold tolerance to handle occasional single-digit nights. The clay soil is both a blessing (incredible fertility, holds nutrients well) and a curse (poor drainage, compacts into concrete, cracks wide enough to damage roots in drought). Bermuda is king across Collin, Tarrant, Dallas, and Denton counties, with zoysia gaining ground in shaded suburban lots where mature pecans and oaks block full sun.
Top picks for this region:
- ✓Core aerate twice annually — once in April and again in October — to combat the Blackland clay compaction that chokes root growth
- ✓Apply gypsum at 40 lbs per 1,000 sq ft each fall to help break up the expansive clay without altering pH
- ✓Set mowing height to 1.5 inches for bermuda in summer to encourage lateral spread and crowd out crabgrass
- ✓Pre-emergent goes down when soil temps hit 55 degrees consistently — in DFW that's typically the first or second week of March, but check the Greencast soil temp map for your zip code
- ✓If your lot backs up to a creek or flood plain, consider zoysia over bermuda — it handles the occasional standing water better than bermuda's shallow root system
Houston / Gulf Coast
Houston and the surrounding Gulf Coast region from Beaumont to Corpus Christi is a subtropical zone where heat and humidity gang up on your lawn from April through October. Annual rainfall exceeds 50 inches in most years, and the heavy clay-loam soil can stay saturated for days after storms. This is St. Augustine country by tradition — the thick-bladed, shade-tolerant grass dominates older neighborhoods — but St. Augustine is sod-only and increasingly vulnerable to chinch bugs and the deadly take-all root rot fungus that thrives in Houston's wet conditions. Bermuda is the seeded alternative for full-sun lots, and it handles the heat better than anything else. Zone 9a conditions mean the growing season stretches from mid-February through November, giving you an enormous window for establishment.
Top picks for this region:
- ✓Fungal pressure is your number one enemy — apply a preventive fungicide (propiconazole) in April before brown patch takes hold, and again in October when nighttime temps drop below 70
- ✓Raise bermuda mowing height to 2 inches during the wettest months (May-June) to improve air circulation at the soil surface and reduce fungal conditions
- ✓Install French drains or grade your lot to move standing water — bermuda will drown in waterlogged soil within 48 hours
- ✓Chinch bugs hit hardest in July and August along sunny edges near driveways and sidewalks — scout these hot spots weekly and treat with bifenthrin at first sign
- ✓Overseed thin bermuda areas in late April when soil temps are consistently above 65 — Houston's long growing season gives seed plenty of time to establish before summer stress
Austin / San Antonio / Hill Country
The Texas Hill Country corridor from San Antonio through Austin up to Waco is defined by three things: limestone, water restrictions, and live oaks. The soil is thin and rocky, often just a few inches of topsoite over fractured limestone or caliche hardpan. Drainage is excellent (sometimes too excellent — water runs right through), and the pH runs alkaline at 7.5 to 8.5. SAWS in San Antonio and Austin Water enforce permanent irrigation restrictions that limit watering to once or twice per week, making drought tolerance non-negotiable. Buffalo grass is the native choice and thrives here with zero irrigation once established. Bermuda dominates HOA-maintained lawns. Zoysia fills the niche for homeowners who want a manicured look under the dappled shade of mature live oaks, which are everywhere and define the Hill Country landscape.
Top picks for this region:
- ✓In rocky Hill Country soil, topdress with a 70/30 compost-sand blend rather than trying to amend the native limestone — you're building soil on top, not fixing what's below
- ✓Buffalo grass needs full sun and hates foot traffic during establishment — rope off seeded areas for 8 to 10 weeks minimum
- ✓Under live oaks, zoysia is your best bet — bermuda will thin out to nothing in the 60% shade that a mature live oak canopy creates
- ✓Time your single weekly watering for pre-dawn (4-6 AM) and deliver a full inch — deep infrequent watering trains roots to chase moisture down into the limestone fractures
- ✓Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers in summer — in alkaline Hill Country soil, excess nitrogen causes iron chlorosis (yellow blades with green veins) because the high pH locks out iron uptake
West Texas / Panhandle
From Lubbock and Amarillo in the Panhandle down through Midland-Odessa and out to El Paso, West Texas is a different world from the rest of the state. Annual rainfall drops to 15 inches in the Panhandle and under 9 in El Paso. The soil is sandy to sandy loam with caliche hardpan, the wind is relentless, and Amarillo sits in Zone 7a — cold enough for hard freezes that kill unprepared warm-season grasses. Buffalo grass is the obvious native choice and the only species that truly thrives here without irrigation. Bermuda works in the southern portions (Midland, Odessa, San Angelo) with supplemental water but struggles in the Panhandle's colder winters. Water rights and well levels are serious concerns — the Ogallala Aquifer is declining, and many municipalities have strict outdoor watering limits.
Top picks for this region:
- ✓Buffalo grass is the only species that survives long-term in West Texas without irrigation — plant it and embrace the native look
- ✓In Amarillo and Lubbock (Zone 7a), bermuda goes dormant by early November and may suffer winterkill in severe years — overseed with a cold-hardy variety and maintain a 3-inch mowing height going into fall
- ✓Wind erosion is a real threat on newly seeded areas — use erosion blankets or hydromulch to keep seed in place during spring wind season (March-May)
- ✓Caliche hardpan may need to be fractured with a rototiller or even a jackhammer before planting — roots cannot penetrate intact caliche
- ✓Water between midnight and 5 AM to minimize evaporation losses — daytime watering in Midland's summer heat can lose 50% to evaporation before it reaches roots
East Texas / Piney Woods
East Texas from Tyler and Longview down through Nacogdoches to the Louisiana border is the state's most heavily forested region, with towering loblolly pines creating heavy shade and acidic soil conditions you won't find anywhere else in Texas. The sandy loam soil drains well (sometimes too well) and runs acidic at pH 5.5 to 6.5 — a stark contrast to the alkaline soils in the rest of the state. Annual rainfall is generous at 45 to 55 inches, and the humidity stays high from spring through fall. This is actually decent cool-season transition zone territory, and you'll see some fescue lawns in the northern reaches around Texarkana. But for most of East Texas, bermuda in the sun and zoysia in the shade is the proven combination. The acidic soil means you may actually need to lime rather than deal with the high-pH iron issues the rest of Texas faces.
Top picks for this region:
- ✓Test your soil pH — East Texas is one of the few regions in the state where you may need to add lime to raise pH above 6.0 for optimal bermuda growth
- ✓Pine needle drop acidifies soil over time — rake heavy accumulations off the lawn in fall rather than letting them mat down and smother grass
- ✓The sandy soil drains fast, so water more frequently but in shorter cycles — two 15-minute sessions are better than one 30-minute soak that runs off
- ✓Zoysia handles the partial shade under pine canopies better than bermuda, which needs 6-plus hours of direct sun to maintain density
- ✓Armyworms are a recurring fall pest in East Texas — scout for them in September and October when you notice birds congregating on the lawn, which is often the first visible sign of an infestation
Texas Lawn Care Calendar
Spring
March - May
- •Apply pre-emergent herbicide when soil temperatures reach 55 degrees at 4-inch depth — typically early March in South Texas, mid-March in DFW, late March in the Panhandle (use the GreenCast or Soil Temperature Maps tool to track your area)
- •Scalp bermuda lawns to 0.5 to 0.75 inches in mid-March (South) or early April (North) once you see consistent green-up — this removes dead thatch and lets sunlight warm the soil for faster recovery
- •Begin mowing bermuda at 1.5 to 2 inches once active growth resumes — bag the first two mowings to remove scalped debris
- •Seed bare spots or new bermuda/buffalo areas once soil temps hold above 65 degrees for two consecutive weeks — late April is the sweet spot for most of the state
- •Apply a balanced fertilizer (15-5-10 or similar) in mid-April after the lawn is fully green and actively growing — never fertilize dormant or semi-dormant turf
- •Begin weekly irrigation if rain is insufficient — deliver 1 inch per week in one or two deep sessions, adjusting for any municipal watering restrictions
Summer
June - August
- •Raise mowing height to the upper end of your grass type's range to reduce heat stress — 2 inches for bermuda, 2.5 to 3 inches for zoysia, 3 to 4 inches for buffalo grass
- •Water deeply and infrequently — 1 to 1.5 inches per week delivered in one or two sessions, ideally before 6 AM to minimize evaporation and disease risk
- •Scout for chinch bugs every week in July and August, especially along sunny edges of driveways, sidewalks, and south-facing borders — these are the hot spots where infestations start
- •Apply a second round of fertilizer in June (half-rate nitrogen, no more than 0.5 lb N per 1,000 sq ft) — avoid fertilizing after July 4th as it pushes top growth during peak heat stress
- •Monitor for grub damage (irregular brown patches that lift like carpet) in late July through August — treat with trichlorfon or chlorantraniliprole if you find more than 5 grubs per square foot
- •Accept that some summer dormancy browning is normal in extreme heat, especially for buffalo grass and unirrigated bermuda — the grass is alive, just conserving energy
Fall
September - November
- •Apply a second round of pre-emergent in early September to catch winter annual weeds like annual bluegrass (Poa annua) and henbit before they germinate
- •Core aerate bermuda and zoysia lawns in September while the grass is still actively growing and can recover — this is the most important aeration window for DFW clay soils
- •Apply a winterizer fertilizer (high potassium, like 10-5-15) in mid-October to harden off the grass before dormancy — potassium strengthens cell walls and improves cold tolerance
- •Continue mowing at regular height until the grass stops growing — do not scalp going into winter, as the leaf blade protects the crown from freeze damage
- •Overseed thin bermuda areas in early September in South Texas (soil is still warm enough for germination) — this window closes by mid-October in North Texas
- •Blow or rake fallen leaves promptly — a mat of wet leaves on dormant bermuda creates a perfect environment for spring dead spot fungus
Winter
December - February
- •Leave dormant bermuda and zoysia alone — do not fertilize, do not water (unless you go 6-plus weeks with zero precipitation), and do not mow
- •Spot-treat winter weeds like henbit, chickweed, and annual bluegrass with a post-emergent containing 2,4-D or sulfentrazone while they're actively growing and the lawn is dormant
- •Sharpen mower blades and service equipment during the off-season so you're ready for the spring scalp
- •Plan any major lawn renovation projects — soil testing, grading, drainage work, and irrigation repairs are all best done in January and February before spring green-up
- •Order grass seed by late January for spring planting — improved bermuda varieties sell out quickly as demand spikes in March and April
- •If you're in South Texas (Zone 9), bermuda may begin showing green-up by late February — hold off on scalping until you see consistent growth across the entire lawn, not just sunny south-facing patches
Texas Lawn Tips You Won't Find on the Seed Bag
Chinch Bug Prevention Starts Before You See Damage
Chinch bugs are the single most destructive lawn pest in Texas, responsible for more bermuda and St. Augustine death than drought. They inject a toxin while feeding that causes grass blades to turn yellow, then brown, then die — and by the time you notice the damage, the population is already massive. Prevention means keeping thatch below half an inch (chinch bugs live in thatch), avoiding excessive nitrogen that creates the lush growth they prefer, and treating proactively with bifenthrin or imidacloprid in late June before populations explode. Check sunny edges along concrete first — that's ground zero for every chinch bug infestation.
Working With Blackland Prairie Clay, Not Against It
The black clay soil across the DFW metroplex and central Texas is some of the most challenging lawn soil in the country. It swells when wet, cracks when dry, and can shift enough to break irrigation lines. The key is accepting that you will never 'fix' this soil — you manage it. Core aerate religiously in spring and fall. Apply gypsum (calcium sulfate) at 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet annually to improve aggregation without raising pH. Topdress with half an inch of quality compost each fall. And never, ever rototill clay soil when it's wet — you'll create clay bricks that take years to break down.
When and How to Scalp Bermuda in Spring
The spring scalp is the most important single maintenance event for Texas bermuda lawns, and getting the timing right matters enormously. Scalp when you see about 50% green-up — the grass is actively growing but still short enough to cut cleanly. In San Antonio, that's usually mid-March. In DFW, late March to early April. In the Panhandle, not until mid-April. Set your mower to its lowest setting (0.5 to 0.75 inches), bag all clippings, and remove the dead brown thatch. Yes, your lawn will look terrible for two weeks. But the exposed soil warms faster, sunlight reaches the stolons, and the bermuda will explode with thick, even growth instead of the patchy green-over-brown look you get when you skip the scalp.
Growing Grass Under Live Oaks — The Texas Shade Problem
Live oaks are the signature tree of Texas landscapes, and their dense, evergreen canopy creates one of the toughest shade challenges in southern lawn care. A mature live oak can shade 3,000 square feet and filter out 60 to 70 percent of available sunlight. Bermuda is essentially useless under live oaks — it needs 6-plus hours of direct sun. Zoysia varieties like Zenith can handle 4 hours of filtered light and are the best seeded option. Raise your mowing height to 3 inches in shaded areas to maximize the leaf blade's photosynthetic surface. Prune live oak lower limbs up to 8 to 10 feet to raise the canopy and let more light through. And accept that directly under the drip line, where root competition and shade are most intense, mulch may be the honest answer.
Dealing With Caliche and Limestone Drainage
Across the Hill Country, West Texas, and parts of North Texas, caliche — a rock-hard layer of calcium carbonate — sits anywhere from 6 inches to 3 feet below the surface. It's essentially natural concrete, and grass roots cannot penetrate it. Water pools on top of it during storms, then the thin topsoil dries out completely between rains. If you're establishing a new lawn over caliche, you need to either fracture the layer mechanically (rototiller for thin deposits, jackhammer or excavator for thick ones) or build up. Raised planting beds with 6 to 8 inches of imported sandy loam over landscape fabric can create a viable root zone. For existing lawns, deep core aeration with a hollow-tine aerator at least twice a year helps punch through surface compaction and lets water reach what root zone you have.
The Iron Chlorosis Problem in Alkaline Texas Soils
If your bermuda or zoysia has yellow blades with dark green veins, you're looking at iron chlorosis — and in Texas, it's almost always caused by high soil pH locking out available iron rather than an actual iron deficiency. This is epidemic across the Blackland Prairie, Hill Country, and West Texas where soil pH runs 7.5 to 8.5. Adding more iron to the soil won't help because the alkaline conditions immediately bind it into insoluble forms. Instead, apply chelated iron (EDDHA chelate specifically — it's the only form stable above pH 7.0) as a foliar spray every 4 to 6 weeks during the growing season. Sulfur-coated fertilizers can help lower pH incrementally over time, but in heavily calcareous soils, the buffering capacity is so high that meaningful pH change requires years of consistent application.
What Texas Lawn Pros Actually Plant
Bermuda Grass
Most PopularBermuda is the undisputed king of Texas lawns, planted on an estimated 70% of residential properties statewide. It thrives in full sun, handles the brutal summers without flinching, and recovers from damage faster than any other warm-season grass. Builder-grade common bermuda comes standard on new construction, but improved seeded varieties offer dramatically better density, color, and drought tolerance. The main knock on bermuda is its aggressive spreading into flower beds and its complete dormancy from November through March, when it turns a straw-brown color that some homeowners find unacceptable. But for pure toughness and performance in Texas heat, nothing else comes close.
Zoysia Grass
Growing FastZoysia has carved out a premium niche in Texas, particularly in shaded suburban lots where mature trees make bermuda impractical. Zenith zoysia is the go-to seeded variety, offering the dense, carpet-like feel that homeowners love along with genuine shade tolerance (4 hours of filtered light is enough). It's slower to establish than bermuda — expect 60 to 90 days to full coverage versus 30 to 45 for bermuda — and it goes dormant in winter just the same. But the payoff is a thick, weed-resistant turf that needs less mowing and handles moderate shade. Zoysia is most popular in upscale DFW neighborhoods, Austin's older tree-lined streets, and Houston lots shaded by mature live oaks.
Buffalo Grass
Popular in Central & West TexasBuffalo grass is the native Texan choice and the only grass that truly belongs here — it evolved on the Great Plains and was growing in Texas long before anyone thought to plant a lawn. It survives on 12 to 15 inches of annual rainfall with zero supplemental irrigation, making it the obvious pick for water-restricted areas like San Antonio, the Hill Country, and all of West Texas. Sharp's Improved is the best seeded variety available, producing a fine-textured, blue-green turf that stays attractive with minimal input. The trade-offs are real: buffalo grass is slow to establish (plant in May, don't expect full coverage until the following spring), goes dormant early in fall, and cannot handle shade or heavy foot traffic. But for water-wise homeowners who want a lawn that works with Texas rather than against it, buffalo is the answer.
St. Augustine Grass
Legacy Favorite (Declining)St. Augustine is the traditional lawn grass of Houston, the Gulf Coast, and South Texas — a thick-bladed, shade-tolerant species that creates a lush tropical look. The catch: St. Augustine is sod-only. There are no viable seed varieties on the market. That makes it expensive to install (expect $0.50 to $0.80 per square foot for sod) and impossible to overseed when it thins out. It also demands the most water of any Texas grass (1.5 inches per week minimum), which puts it at odds with water restrictions across much of the state. Chinch bugs and take-all root rot are persistent threats. St. Augustine is still everywhere in Houston's established neighborhoods, but new installations are increasingly being replaced by bermuda or zoysia that can be seeded at a fraction of the cost.
Tall Fescue (Transition Zone Only)
Niche / Northern Border OnlyTall fescue is a long shot in Texas, viable only in the northernmost reaches — think Texarkana, Sherman, and the upper Panhandle near the Oklahoma border where Zone 7 conditions provide cool enough winters for it to persist. Even there, fescue is a gamble: it stays green through winter (a major appeal in a state full of dormant bermuda) but struggles mightily through Texas summers, requiring heavy irrigation and shade to survive July and August. A few DFW homeowners try it in heavily shaded north-facing yards, but the five-year survival rate is poor. If you're in Texas and want winter color, overseeding dormant bermuda with perennial ryegrass in October is a far more reliable strategy than trying to maintain fescue year-round.
Texas Lawn Seeding Tips
Getting the best results from your grass seed in Texas comes down to timing, soil prep, and choosing the right variety for your specific conditions. Here are our top tips:
- Test your soil first. A $15 soil test from your Texas extension office tells you exact pH and nutrient levels. Most warm-season grasses prefer pH 6.0-6.5.
- Prep the seedbed properly. Rake or aerate to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. This single step improves germination rates more than any seed coating or starter fertilizer.
- Use a starter fertilizer. Apply a phosphorus-rich starter fertilizer at seeding time to promote root development. We recommend Scotts Starter Fertilizer or The Andersons Starter.
- Water correctly. Keep the seedbed consistently moist (not soaked) for the first 2-4 weeks. Light watering 2-3 times per day is better than one heavy soaking.
- Be patient. Warm-season grasses are slower to establish. Bermuda takes 7-14 days, but Zoysia and Centipede can take 3-4 weeks. Don't panic if you don't see results immediately.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to plant grass seed in Texas?
Late April through June for warm-season grasses; avoid planting after August as fall drought stress is common
What type of grass grows best in Texas?
Texas is best suited for warm-season grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede, and Bahia. These grasses thrive in heat, go dormant in winter, and grow most actively from late spring through early fall.
What are the biggest lawn care challenges in Texas?
The main challenges for Texas lawns include extreme heat, drought, clay soil, diverse regions (north vs south). Choosing the right grass variety that is adapted to these specific conditions is the single most important decision you can make for your lawn.
Can I grow Kentucky Bluegrass in Texas?
Kentucky Bluegrass is not recommended for Texas. KBG is a cool-season grass that will struggle with the heat and go dormant or die during Texas's hot summers. Stick with warm-season options like Bermuda or Zoysia for the best results.
How much does it cost to seed a lawn in Texas?
For a typical 5,000 sq ft lawn, expect to spend $150-$400 on seed alone depending on the variety. Premium seeds like Midnight Kentucky Bluegrass or Zenith Zoysia cost more per pound but deliver better results. Add $50-$100 for starter fertilizer and $20-$50 for soil amendments. The seed is the smallest part of your total investment — proper soil prep and consistent watering matter more than saving $50 on cheaper seed.
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